What is the advantage a Lever-Set setting has over a conventional finding?
Control of the bending force and a totally pre-cut tip which saves time.
Are Leverset settings good for all stones?
No setting is good for all stones! Some stones contain cracks that make them unfit for any setting. Always loupe your gem before setting, especially on the points of a Princess cut, for cracks and flaws. Also, stones with imperfect cuts and thin girdles are better in a traditional setting where the prong can be prepared for the irregularity.
Don’t the levers increase the cost of the setting?
The short answer is yes but if you compare the weights you will find them about the same as a conventional setting. Because of the “extra” height of most settings, there is as much waste as with the Leverset design. The biggest differences is that the lever stays intact when removed, yielding a much easier to track scrap for refining.
What is the best way to select a size for my stone?
Leverset settings are supplied in 1/2 MM increments. Start the selection by measuring your stone.
Princess: Measure the distance across two flat sides.
Round: Measure the diameter
If your stone is between two stock sizes, order the next size up.
Example: Stone measures 7.3 MM – use 7.5MM
IMPORTANT: Never fit a princess cut into a tight setting. You can open the tips slightly to allow the stone to drop into the seats but the stone must fit loosely before the tips are bent towards the stone and tightened.